L185 2006 intermittently stops

Ktghiz

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Jul 4, 2025
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Could use some of your thoughts. I have seen others hsve this same problem. While machine is operating it will just stop moving. Sometimes a jerky feeling like something is making and losing contact making it happen, otherwise it just stops abruptly. I just found that mice made a nest in the fuse box in the headliner. I replaced the wires they chewed, replace some of the fuse holders terminals that were rotted from urine. Still doing it. When this happens, no indicator lights show up on the dash. Anytime before, seatbelt light went off if it was a loose connection or the parking brake would come on as well. None of that with this. When it happens I turn on the parking brake and turn it off and it will go again. No rhyme or reason meaning timing, hot, cold and it even happens at idle. Please help if you any insight. I appreciate your time. Thanks
 
Intermittent issues are a pain to track down but it's good you've found and fixed the damage done by the mouse!
The symptoms you're describing all sound like a power supply issue to the main controller or maybe a CAN bus communication problem.
I think how cycling the parking brake fixes it temporarily can be a clue because on these machines, the parking brake is often tied into the safety interlock system, and a glitch there can cause the whole thing to shut down.
Maybe even after you fixed the wires, one of those corroded fuse terminals still isn't making a solid connection.
Have you tried replacing the whole fuse holder for the main power fuses?
It's also worth checking the grounds, especially the main one for the cab and the one for the controller.
A bad ground can cause all sorts of weird intermittent issues that are hard to diagnose.
I'd start there, especially since you mentioned the jerky feeling, which could be the controller losing power and then getting it back.
 
I had an issue with my TC33D tractor engine just shutting off, I tapped the ignition switch area hard I was able to start it it stopped I tapped again it started till I got back to my cabin. I drove the tractor down the driveway again and the tractor engine shut off and would not start. While replacing the ignition switch I noticed one wire was loose and had pulled out from the ignition switch. It looked like the wiring harness was to short causing the wire connectors on the ignition switch to constantly be pulled. While installing a new ignition switch I added 6” of 10 gauge wires to the 4 wires going to the ignition switch to relieve the pulling tension. The 30 amp fuse by the starter was blown so I replaced it. After these fixes I ran the tractor for 2 hours and so far no issues.
 

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I had an issue with my TC33D tractor engine just shutting off, I tapped the ignition switch area hard I was able to start it it stopped I tapped again it started till I got back to my cabin. I drove the tractor down the driveway again and the tractor engine shut off and would not start. While replacing the ignition switch I noticed one wire was loose and had pulled out from the ignition switch. It looked like the wiring harness was to short causing the wire connectors on the ignition switch to constantly be pulled. While installing a new ignition switch I added 6" of 10 gauge wires to the 4 wires going to the ignition switch to relieve the pulling tension. The 30 amp fuse by the starter was blown so I replaced it. After these fixes I ran the tractor for 2 hours and so far no issues.
Thanks for sharing this! Super helpful. I just picked up a TC33D for some light work around my property. Haven't had issues yet, but I'm trying to learn what to watch for.

Did you notice any warning signs before the engine started cutting out? And was the short harness a factory thing or maybe wear over time? Curious if this is something I should check before it becomes a problem. Smart move on the wire extension by the way.
 
Thanks for sharing this! Super helpful. I just picked up a TC33D for some light work around my property. Haven't had issues yet, but I'm trying to learn what to watch for.

Did you notice any warning signs before the engine started cutting out? And was the short harness a factory thing or maybe wear over time? Curious if this is something I should check before it becomes a problem. Smart move on the wire extension by the way.
I did remember a few times turning the key to start the engine it did not start. Turned key back and tried to start no start the third time it started. The OEM key switch can be erratic at times. Seeing that a lot of tractor owners are having issues with their OEM ignition switches and also issues with the new replacement OEM key switch is something to consider replacing with the NAPA ignition switches. for me now I have piece of mind. The new NAPA switch turns more easily with less tension and force. The old OEM ignition switches I feel like the key is going to bend and break off.
 
Great point about the safety interlock circuit. Those corroded fuse terminals are probably still causing random power losses, even after the wiring has been fixed. It's a good idea to replace the entire fuse holders for the main power circuits and also check the engine-to-frame ground strap. High resistance in either of these areas can lead to those symptoms
 
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